Potomac Valley Radio Club Resources


Dos logger issues hyperlink courtesy N6TR
I had some fear that the process would not be easy to modify my license 
to update with my changed 911 street address, so I procrastinated a bit.
I went to the ARRL web for guidance and didn't get much, but they linked 
me to the main FCC web page. The process was unbelievably easy. I 
registered for my FRN number (registration number with password to track 
on-line transaction), modified my address, and printed out the resultant
forms in 10-12 minutes. My new license was printed out the day of the
modification and received 5 days later! I just wanted to let everyone 
know not to fear dealing with license changes/renewals on-line and would 
be happy to share details with anyone who has trouble.
73, Jeff N8II
License Renewal I used the ARRL license renewal process last year and found it to be fast and efficient.  My license arrived within a week of filling out the form on the ARRL web site.  I highly recommend it.

73,  John N3AM

To: "PVRC REFLECTOR" <[email protected]>
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 14:00:02 -0400
Subject: [PVRC] ARRL help with renewals

The W7 QSL manager, W7WLL, told me the ARRL has free license renewal help
for both clubs and individuals.  Here is the info WY1O at ARRL has just sent
me in response to my inquiry:


The procedure for the club(s) is very simple.

Download ARRL/VEC Form 605-C, the document for Club Licensing at:


Fill out this simple form, which must be signed by the club license trustee
and by another responsible club official. (The trustee must hold an FCC
issued amateur license of any class except Novice. The responsible club
official must be an officer of the club. He or she MUST NOT be the same
person as the club license trustee!)
A while back, this reflector received a query about how to buy land and
avoid a fight with the seller. Here's language I used in a Maine
transaction. The buyer was purchasing 25 out of 42 acres. [Complete
confession -- I used a Maine conveyancing attorney and let him draft. The
version below has more periods and commas, resulting in more readable

-- Fred K1VR     [email protected]

Grantor understands and agrees that Grantee intends to use the premises
herein conveyed for communications, which may involve the construction
and use of one or more towers, communications equipment buildings,
satellite dishes and related structures, as well as equipment for both
receiving and transmitting.  Grantor, his heirs and assigns, hereby
consent to and waive any objections to the lawful construction and use of
such facilities , as well as radio and television reception and
transmission.  Grantor, his heirs and assigns further agree to not
permit the construction of a communications tower or any other
communications-realted commercial use, including, but not limited to,
competing radio and television use, on the remainder of the Grantor's
land or any other land in [name of town] now owned by or controlled by
Grantor, or any affiliated entity or individual(s).
The Ham-Law Mailing List. This list is for discussion and does not
purport to give legal advice.

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LPT Interface
Article on wiring LPT interface right in the lpt plug here. Courtesy W3PP
PVRC Mount
We think this technique was first used by W3AU:

You must visualize a normal BOOM TO MAST mount. Eg, a plate with four
holes drilled in it for the boom mount of 2 clamps. and four more
holes for the two clamps that hold the plate to the mast ?
Take this normal boom to mast clamp, now mentally pull the yagi boom
OFF the mount and substitute a two or three foot "boom".
On the end of the boom put ANOTHER boom-to-mast clamp exactly the same
as the first one. THATS IT !!!

Now the yagi's normal boom to mast clamp is attached to the HORIZONTAL
boom of two or three feet and it is rotational BOTH veritcally and

The idea is to horizonatlly extend the mast far enuff out to clear your tower.
You can then build the yagi up on the tower top and swing it horizontal.

I use this technique on all my towers.

You can see a DOUBLE pvrc mount at http://n4af.net/pvrcm.htm
NOTE: that the horizontal boom in the pix extends in BOTH directions
horizontally- as I built both yagis on the tower top and used their
combined weight to balance downward vectors on the horizontal boom.

The PVRC MOUNT is nothing more than TWO boom-to-mast clamps on
opposite ends of a two or three foot horizontal boom.
In the process you can now rotate the yagi in ANY direction to
I built all my yagi's on tower, single handed using the technique.

73, Howie N4AF

Hi Eric,

Here's the info you requested:
      73, Dan K2YWE
Rust Control
This is specifically aimed at towers but really applies to all steel structures.

The best way to control existing rust is via sandblasting the surface bare and either hot dip galvanizing or cold galvanizing with a product like ZRC Galvilite.Sandblasting is a slow process requiring a preferably two stage oil lubricated compressor but, for SPOT REMOVAL a smaller compressor may work- though it is probably not worth consideration without at least a 5hp 20 gallon compressor.Rust staining is a perfect application for sandblasting. The more heavy the rusting, or the more surface rusted, the more alternatives should be explored (see rust-conversion below).

Try to work over something like a concrete pad, where the sand can be recycled thru a screen for reuse.
Although I use a filter, some water will pass in the air, as the compressed air cools in the tank, but the more it is minimized the higher the amount of sand that will be blown. I find it helpful to fasten the blaster to air hose loose enought so that a small amt of air escapes at the blaster fitting. Typically water will exit in the process allowing the sand to dispurse better.
If the sand is not absolutely dry, spread it out on a tarp or concrete pad and let it dry in the sun. Always pass it thru a screen, upon collection, to remove impurities that would clog the blaster.
Personally, I use goggles, and then a helmet with pull down visor over the face. I then use a denim jacket and pants with boots.

If the surface to sandblast is largely rusted or the rust is advanced I would recommend chemical conversion using a product like "1 Step". The more advanced the rust the better the vinyl polymer bond will be. Once the product has dried on the surface (two applications over 30 minutes recommended), you should paint with a rustoleum type product. Do NOT use a zinc rich paint such as Galvilite, as the metal is not bare. Although I do not use hand protection, it is adviseable as your hands will blacken and the material will not come off easily when dried. As long as brushes (foam recommended) are cleaned after usage with water they should be good for reuse.I like to take a small, plasitc peanut jar, with a hole drilled in the top and a wire run thru the hole and knotted in the end up the tower with the jar's wire knotted to my belt. Inside the jar is a small foam brush and any rusted surfaces on the tower/mast/hardware gets painted. If the rust converter reacts with the rust the surface should turn purple and if the rust is advanced enought the surface will turn black (normally tower rust will not be this heavy).

Although I prefer foam brushes, the individually packaged ones with a plastic backbone going down the middle seem to last a lot longer.

When using an oil based paint, if I have more to do later, I DO NOT clean the brush. Rather I flood it with paint and imerse it in water so that air cannot reach it. Just shake the water out and It is good to go when you resume painting.

73, Howie N4AF

Tower Climber
Here is the name of an excellent tower climber I have recently used.  He 
formerly worked as a rigger for Norm Jeweler at US Towers in Frederick.  He lives 
in Ranson WV, near Charles Town.

He is:  Mike Winters
           (304) 725-4954


How many radials do I need ? http://www.ncjweb.com/k3lcmaxgainradials.pdf
Elevated radials I did a presentation last PVRC-NC meeting on broadcast antennas and QRO-OOO
 transmitters (I am in the broadcast field).   One of the points I made is that a SIMPLE (3-6 wires) elevated ground system  may out perform a full bore (32+ wires) buried system (see the bottom link).  Oh if you do decided to go with a buried system, DO add clumping cat litter  to enhance the ground conductivity. It is much cheaper than the so called  "pro" stuff out there.
 Here is the response that I gave to the PVRCNC people:  You can play with burying hundreds of feet of wire or you can go elevated: http://www.nottltd.com/ElevatedRadialSystem.pdf   As I mentioned in my presentation, it is most important to cover an area  close in to the antenna. There is not a big addition in coverage with the  longer wires. It is better (if you go buried) to have MORE then LONGER  radials (this should lower the ground loss at the BASE of the antenna, where  IMHO it needs to happen). I suggested a 20' square of an interwoven 'grid"  with about 1 - 2' squares to create a "screen" . Elevate it if you can!   In this article a number of issues are skipped over (or I read to fast,  which is quite possible).  Dont you find it interesting that they are suggesting a LOWER number of  radials in poor soil? That is because of ground loss.... something the  elevated system is supposed to lower.
 Another issues is that they talk about the NUMBER of radials versus the area
 covered. So if I have 500' of wire, they are still suggesting that ALL
 radials be 1/4 wavelength. Unfortunately they didnt try shorter, but more
 numerous radials.  BTW in our area, I always assume that we have poor (heh or NO) ground  conductivity.  Here is a discussion and data about elevated versus standard ground system  in Ham Radio Frequencies:
 Here you will see that 3 -4 elevated wires can out perform 32 buried wires!
 (Shhhhhhh just dont tell anyone!)
 Kent Winrich
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