Potomac Valley Radio Club Resources
|Dos logger issues hyperlink courtesy N6TR|
I had some fear that the process would not be easy to modify my license to update with my changed 911 street address, so I procrastinated a bit. I went to the ARRL web for guidance and didn't get much, but they linked me to the main FCC web page. The process was unbelievably easy. I registered for my FRN number (registration number with password to track on-line transaction), modified my address, and printed out the resultant forms in 10-12 minutes. My new license was printed out the day of the modification and received 5 days later! I just wanted to let everyone know not to fear dealing with license changes/renewals on-line and would be happy to share details with anyone who has trouble. 73, Jeff N8II
|License Renewal|| I used the ARRL license renewal process last year and found it to be
fast and efficient. My license arrived within a week of filling out
the form on the ARRL web site. I highly recommend it.
73, John N3AM
From: "RICHARD BOYD"
To: "PVRC REFLECTOR" <[email protected]>
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 14:00:02 -0400
Subject: [PVRC] ARRL help with renewals
The W7 QSL manager, W7WLL, told me the ARRL has free license renewal help
for both clubs and individuals. Here is the info WY1O at ARRL has just sent
me in response to my inquiry:
The procedure for the club(s) is very simple.
Download ARRL/VEC Form 605-C, the document for Club Licensing at:
Fill out this simple form, which must be signed by the club license trustee
and by another responsible club official. (The trustee must hold an FCC
issued amateur license of any class except Novice. The responsible club
official must be an officer of the club. He or she MUST NOT be the same
person as the club license trustee!)
| A while back, this reflector received a query about how to buy land and
avoid a fight with the seller. Here's language I used in a Maine
transaction. The buyer was purchasing 25 out of 42 acres. [Complete
confession -- I used a Maine conveyancing attorney and let him draft. The
version below has more periods and commas, resulting in more readable
-- Fred K1VR [email protected]
Grantor understands and agrees that Grantee intends to use the premises
herein conveyed for communications, which may involve the construction
and use of one or more towers, communications equipment buildings,
satellite dishes and related structures, as well as equipment for both
receiving and transmitting. Grantor, his heirs and assigns, hereby
consent to and waive any objections to the lawful construction and use of
such facilities , as well as radio and television reception and
transmission. Grantor, his heirs and assigns further agree to not
permit the construction of a communications tower or any other
communications-realted commercial use, including, but not limited to,
competing radio and television use, on the remainder of the Grantor's
land or any other land in [name of town] now owned by or controlled by
Grantor, or any affiliated entity or individual(s).
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|Article on wiring LPT interface right in the lpt plug here. Courtesy W3PP|
|We think this technique was first used by W3AU:
You must visualize a normal BOOM TO MAST mount. Eg, a plate with four
Hi Eric, Here's the info you requested: http://www.sunshinecordage.com/catalog.htm I use their 3/8" diameter black polypropylene, catalog# 50-009. Be sure you specify black rope! http://www.sunshinecordage.com/sc10.htm 5/16" or 1/4" diameter rope may suit your needs. They manufacture a wide range of ropes, as you can see from their catalog. 73! Frank W3LPL You might want to ad the Radio Works cordage to your list. http://www.radioworks.com/index2.html
|This is specifically aimed at towers but really applies to all steel
The best way to control existing rust is via sandblasting the surface bare and either hot dip galvanizing or cold galvanizing with a product like ZRC Galvilite.Sandblasting is a slow process requiring a preferably two stage oil lubricated compressor but, for SPOT REMOVAL a smaller compressor may work- though it is probably not worth consideration without at least a 5hp 20 gallon compressor.Rust staining is a perfect application for sandblasting. The more heavy the rusting, or the more surface rusted, the more alternatives should be explored (see rust-conversion below).
Try to work over something like a concrete pad, where the sand can be
recycled thru a screen for reuse.
If the surface to sandblast is largely rusted or the rust is advanced I would recommend chemical conversion using a product like "1 Step". The more advanced the rust the better the vinyl polymer bond will be. Once the product has dried on the surface (two applications over 30 minutes recommended), you should paint with a rustoleum type product. Do NOT use a zinc rich paint such as Galvilite, as the metal is not bare. Although I do not use hand protection, it is adviseable as your hands will blacken and the material will not come off easily when dried. As long as brushes (foam recommended) are cleaned after usage with water they should be good for reuse.I like to take a small, plasitc peanut jar, with a hole drilled in the top and a wire run thru the hole and knotted in the end up the tower with the jar's wire knotted to my belt. Inside the jar is a small foam brush and any rusted surfaces on the tower/mast/hardware gets painted. If the rust converter reacts with the rust the surface should turn purple and if the rust is advanced enought the surface will turn black (normally tower rust will not be this heavy).
Although I prefer foam brushes, the individually packaged ones with a plastic backbone going down the middle seem to last a lot longer.
When using an oil based paint, if I have more to do later, I DO NOT clean the brush. Rather I flood it with paint and imerse it in water so that air cannot reach it. Just shake the water out and It is good to go when you resume painting.
73, Howie N4AF
Here is the name of an excellent tower climber I have recently used. He formerly worked as a rigger for Norm Jeweler at US Towers in Frederick. He lives in Ranson WV, near Charles Town. He is: Mike Winters (304) 725-4954 73 Mike W0YR/4
|How many radials do I need ?||http://www.ncjweb.com/k3lcmaxgainradials.pdf|
|Elevated radials|| I did a presentation last PVRC-NC meeting on broadcast antennas and QRO-OOO
transmitters (I am in the broadcast field). One of the points I made is that a SIMPLE (3-6 wires) elevated ground system may out perform a full bore (32+ wires) buried system (see the bottom link). Oh if you do decided to go with a buried system, DO add clumping cat litter to enhance the ground conductivity. It is much cheaper than the so called "pro" stuff out there.
Here is the response that I gave to the PVRCNC people: You can play with burying hundreds of feet of wire or you can go elevated: http://www.nottltd.com/ElevatedRadialSystem.pdf As I mentioned in my presentation, it is most important to cover an area close in to the antenna. There is not a big addition in coverage with the longer wires. It is better (if you go buried) to have MORE then LONGER radials (this should lower the ground loss at the BASE of the antenna, where IMHO it needs to happen). I suggested a 20' square of an interwoven 'grid" with about 1 - 2' squares to create a "screen" . Elevate it if you can! In this article a number of issues are skipped over (or I read to fast, which is quite possible). Dont you find it interesting that they are suggesting a LOWER number of radials in poor soil? That is because of ground loss.... something the elevated system is supposed to lower.
Another issues is that they talk about the NUMBER of radials versus the area
covered. So if I have 500' of wire, they are still suggesting that ALL
radials be 1/4 wavelength. Unfortunately they didnt try shorter, but more
numerous radials. BTW in our area, I always assume that we have poor (heh or NO) ground conductivity. Here is a discussion and data about elevated versus standard ground system in Ham Radio Frequencies:
Here you will see that 3 -4 elevated wires can out perform 32 buried wires!
(Shhhhhhh just dont tell anyone!)
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